|
The Culinary Approach
Fresh Flavors and Proper Portions are Essential to the Modern Blended Cocktail
It is not an accurate statement to say that blended cocktails have
waned in popularity on-premise. The truth is that it’s all about the
concept. “Every bar has to make an analysis of what their theme is,”
says Tony Abou-Ganim, the spirits educator and cocktail creator known
as The Modern Mixologist. “If a blended drink works for your concept,
you should embrace it. Even Ernest Hemingway liked his Daiquiris
blended. “Don’t be put off by the blender.”
Funky Fresh
While handcrafted cocktails continue to be the order of the day in
lounges where patrons find the whir of a blender off-putting, the same
current culinary approach to cocktails is the key to making modern
magic with blended drinks, Abou-Ganim believes. Whether a mixer base is
used or not, fresh fruit is the crux of giving blended and frozen
drinks their due. “In the right hands, the blender is a great tool,”
says Abou-Ganim, who crafted the Funky Monkey, one of the most popular
frozen drinks poolside at Bellagio in Las Vegas. The concoction
features fresh banana, coconut milk and roasted coconut, among other
ingredients. “Take the culinary approach, whether you hand-shake the
drink or blend it,” A bou-Ganim says. “Using fresh ingredients in a
blender is a little tricky. I usually use the fruit that the chef
doesn’t want to use because it’s so ripe.” For Abou-Ganim, when
striving to present the quality of flavor in blended drinks that has
made handcrafted cocktails gain such favor, Latin drinks provide the
most opportunity to wow patrons. “I’m a big proponent of Latin
cocktails — anything from the Mojito to Pisco Sours to Caipirinhas to a
style of drinks that utilize the blender, called Patidas,” he says.
“Patidas feature the Brazilian spirit cachaça as the base and utilize a
plethora of fresh fruits, along with condensed milk, coconut milk and
other ingredients. It’s a straightforward drink, but it’s taking the
artificial mixes that have dominated the blending world and replacing
them with fresh, seasonal fruits. “Once you understand the basic Patida
recipe, you can use any combination of fruit you have available. I
don’t try to fight with Mother Nature. I use what’s in season and when
the season’s done, I move on to something else.”
The Right Hands
Putting a blender in the right hands means not just having a bartender
with a great, fresh fruit recipe but also a bartender who knows how to
use the machine in the first place. It’s not rocket science, but it’s
also very easy to abuse. “There’s a lack of proficiency in using
blenders,” says Arturo Sighinolfi, spirits educator and master
mixologist with distributor Southern Wine & Spirits of Florida.
“You’ll see a frozen drink somewhere, and after a minute the frozen
part will go to the top, with a layer of liquid on the bottom,” says
Sighinolfi, who has created blended drinks for Chili’s. “You should
always used crushed ice. If you use big chunks, you ruin the blades of
the blender. And use the proper amount.” It’s all about balance, and
the balancing act just requires a little care. “Measuring is
important,” Abou-Ganim says. “If you use too much ice, it dilutes all
the ingredients.” Sighinolfi also advises operators to make sure
bartenders are trained in portion control, because often the blending
of drinks presents a big opportunity for liquor waste and loss of
control over costs — with bartenders pouring willy-nilly into the
blender to make a batch of multiple drinks. Just as with any cocktail,
Sighinolfi advises using a jigger to measure the liquor even when
making blended drinks. |