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Vegging Out
Veggie Pizza Isn’t Just For Vegetarians Anymore
Back in the old days, the benchmark for veggie pizza was the
infamous pepper, onion, mushroom and olive combo veggie supreme. It was
a fixture on most pizzeria menus and it still is. The POM&O
(pepper, onion, mushroom and olive combo) pizza has earned its
ubiquitous status.
Star Status
As with many of today’s most popular pizza toppings, the winds of
change are blowing in some hot new concepts. Inventive vegetable-based
pizzas are rapidly gaining popularity.
American consumers are pleasantly obsessed with all things
culinary, from barbecue to bordelaise. They eat out several times a
week, they read cookbooks like novels and watch the Food Channel like
ESPN fanatics. In short, the consumer has become more sophisticated and
demanding in seeking out the best quality, flavor, and innovation.
Traditional vegetarian pizza, with its piles of raw vegetables,
clearly got no respect when competing with its meat-topped competition.
To most operators, the veggie pizza was something to appease those
whacky vegetarians. But as the demand for better veggie-based pizzas
arose and the consumer became much more exacting, operators began to
experiment with more veggie toppings.
The new generation of vegetable-based pizzas appeals to a wide
audience, not just to vegetarians. With plenty of new buzzwords to
enhance their allure, discerning consumers now clamor to eat their
vegetables — as long as they aren’t boring or over-cooked. The consumer
has gotten hip to a whole new repertoire of vegetable cookery and new
catch phrases for popular ingredients and techniques. Vegetables now
have pedigrees.
An onion is no longer merely an onion; it is a Walla Walla, or a
Vidalia, or a Torpedo, or it is red, silver or yellow. Banana peppers,
Roma tomatoes, Portabella mushrooms and Japanese eggplant are but a few
of the designer vegetables widely available.
In the past, we had to make due with baked, boiled and steamed.
Now, vegetables are grilled, roasted, caramelized, stir-fried or
sautéed, and they sound appetizing.
Making the Cut
Even the way vegetables are cut sounds sexy: paper-thin, shaved,
slivered, confetti and ribbons. Many of these classic culinary terms,
once used only in trendy restaurants, are now part of the universal
chit-chat.
The right cut for the right application makes all the difference in
the world. Haphazardly cut vegetables are a thing of the past. Thick
strips of raw vegetables do not work well on top of pizza because they
release too much moisture and cause the pie to be soggy. As a result,
most pizza makers are using thinner cut vegetables.
A rule of thumb to keep in mind: Thinner cuts give off the least
amount of water and cook fast on top of the pie. Most commercial
produce companies can precut vegetables as thin as a 1/4 inch. To cut
vegetables thinner still, use the electric slicer to get cuts of about
1/8 of an inch (for paper-thin cuts). Shaving almost sheer slices can
be achieved with some slicers, however the best tools are hand-held
Japanese slicer/graters and, in some cases, for harder vegetables and
cheese, the new micro-plane graters and shavers work well.
When it comes to roasting, grilling and caramelizing, thicker cuts
are better. Vegetables can be cut up to a half or 3/4 of an inch when
they are to be cooked. Thin cuts will dry and shrivel during the
cooking process, while thicker cuts will gain a richer flavor and
tender texture. In some cases, like grilling, small thin pieces are
next to impossible to grill properly without their falling through into
the coals.
Chunkier vegetables also work best when roasted or caramelized
because the vegetables do not get mushy before developing the right
flavors and color. NCB
This article is excerpted from an article that appeared in PMQ’s Pizza
Magazine and is reprinted with permission. For more on pizza trends,
visit www.pmq.com.
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