ONEFORTHEROAD 

The Business of
Brown's

Charlie Brown's $1,600 investment in two mule-drawn trolley cars situated at “the end of the line” in Nashville, Tenn.’s historic Hillsboro Village has proven to be quite a bargain.
    In a time when diners were commonplace, Charlie Brown began a  legacy that still endures. Even though he refused to serve a beer or cook a burger when Roosevelt’s Fireside Chats were airing, Brown built up a solid reputation for great food and good times.
    But, what does an owner do when his 80-year-old landmark of an establishment burns down? He rebuilds and carries on. That’s exactly what my dad, Jim Love, the current owner, did after Brown’s Diner caught fire in 2005.

A Little History
    When Jim Sr. bought Brown’s in 1973, he had some changes in mind, but he vowed to keep the name. In 1986, he added a dining room on, increasing capacity to 75, including the bar.
    Since ‘73, Brown’s legend has grown exponentially. Repeatedly voted Nashville’s Best Cheeseburger, Dad contends that the secret is consistency. People come to Brown’s expecting hand-patted fresh ground beef (81/19 only!) and healthy portions of sides. Even though Brown’s has been showcased on the Food Network and “Wicker’s World,” Great Britain’s answer to “60 Minutes,” it never loses its casual, neighborhood feel.
    After Country Music Weekly named it one of Nashville’s best places to see the stars, the musicians continued to eat unbothered. Perhaps that’s why it traditionally has been a favorite hangout for songwriters and singers who make the short trek from Music Row.
    Except for a false foundation added in the ‘30s for tax purposes and the now-aging back dining room, Brown’s looks much like it did in 1927. Dark and smoky, lit by neon beer signs and soft light bulbs, Brown’s laid-back vibe transcends time and harkens back to its roots. The clientele is diverse; a table full of suited businessmen casually sits next to a table of hard-working laborers. The same cast of characters paints the bar every day. Terry Young, the longtime manager and bartender, can set his watch by the comings and goings of the neighborhood regulars. The last time I was home, a man easily in his 80s told me he could remember his parents bringing him to Brown’s as a child. He met his wife there.

Carrying On
    Of course, the fire at Brown’s affected my family immensely. What was surprising, though, was the overflow of volunteers waiting to lend a hand. People from  patrons to employees to competing owners in Nashville showed up to help clean and rebuild. A local librarian even offered a $1,000 check. Tragedy became triumph — a community
coming together to rebuild one of its landmarks.
    Brown’s is back up and running now and, in my opinion, is better than ever. Though it’s hard to argue with $2 draft beer and burgers that are priced comparably to most fast-food chains, I like to think it’s something else that keeps Brown’s alive. I see Brown’s as a sort of real life “Cheers.” It’s a place where the working class and the wealthy alike come to celebrate what’s good about Nashville and about life. NCB