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Burgers, Fries and Synchronicity
An American Classic Often Is the Measure of a Menu
With the exception of Ray Croc and the meatpacking industry itself,
perhaps no other form of business enterprise in the country has
benefited more from the hamburger than the bar.
Bars make their reputation off the burgers they ply to patrons
along with their other beer and spirits mainstays. One hand washes the
other, so to speak, with the sale of a bar burger and fries naturally
requiring a brew or two to wash it down.
Even other bar classic foods, from chicken wings to pizza to tacos
to French fries, owe much to the hamburger in all of its variations for
greasing the wheels of an on-premise comfort food boom worth billions
of dollars annually.
Occasionally, some well intended soul will challenge the
institution of the hamburger as a retro food with no place in a
heart-healthy society where red meat –– and the onion rings that
complement it –– are a proven no-no.
But as Barmuda Corp. Director of Marketing Jennifer Kramer Williams
has come to understand in helping to create the menus at the several
bars and restaurants owned by the Iowa-based food and beverage chain,
“It doesn’t pay to get between patrons and their burger and fries.”
The Cadillac of Hamburgers
While it began as a pub in New York City back in 1884, Manhattan’s
P.J. Clarke’s owes its reputation and its future to the hamburgers for
which it is famous around the world.
Owned in part by George Steinbrenner of New York Yankees fame, the
historic P.J. Clark’s location at 55th Street and Third Avenue is
burger heaven for the famous and the not so famous and has been so for
more than a century.
With a bevy of awards presented to it for what is widely viewed by
everyone from Esquire magazine to The New York Post as one of the best
hamburgers in the whole of the Big Apple, and sales numbered in the
thousands of burgers each week, P. J. Clarke’s indeed is a testament to
the macho power of the hamburger to make a bar’s reputation.
“Our famous hamburger is the Cadillac of hamburgers,” says General
Manager Patrick Walsh. “That is the way that Nat King Cole described
it.”
A 6-ounce slab of Nebraska beef prepared on a flattop grill and
served on a traditional bun with a slice of onion, Walsh says the house
hamburger, starting at $8.50, can be ordered in a number of sizes and
in countless combinations, and is one of three things for which P.J.
Clarke’s is renowned.
“The first is the Tiffany-glass-dome urinals located in the middle
of the venue that Esquire once called the best in all the world,” Walsh
says. “The second thing is our famous hamburgers, and the third is the
service that you get when you come here.”
In addition to its standard classic hamburger, patrons such as Axl
Rose and the Hiltons can stop in and have a beverage and a burger with
Swiss, Mozzarella or Bleu cheese, with smothered onions, chili or
sautéed mushrooms, or opt for the Bernaise Burger. Mini versions of the
house classic burger also are available on the appetizer menu.
When it comes to the hamburgers at P.J. Clarke’s, Walsh says his
customers, as many as 1,500 of them every day, are highly creative and
ruggedly individual about the way they eat them.
One of the most inventive ways that customers enjoy the burgers
there involves the onion strings also found on the P.J.’s menu.
“Customers will order chili cheeseburgers and add on some of our deep fried onion strings,” Walsh says.
If patrons occasionally are in the mood for something different or
more substantial, they can order up one of P.J.’s 14-ounce Sirloin
steaks, served with shoestring fries, home fries or mashed potatoes.
Another specialty potato side is known as Bubble & Squeak. “It is a
small Irish potato pancake made with bacon and cabbage and cooked on
the flat top grill,” Walsh says. “We call it that because that is the
sound it makes when you cook it.”
Ketchup, Mustard and Nostalgia
Although the hamburger has evolved over time, Walsh says much about
this egalitarian and thoroughly modern food source remains unchanged.
“When it really took hold of people’s imagination, it was a meal on
the go, sold from off of wagons and lunch carts,” he says. “It was what
was affordable, what was nutritious and tasty. These guys (hamburger
peddlers) were the pillars of the community. They had a smile for all.
After all, when you think back to when hamburgers become popular,
things were not too bright.”
“Part of the synchronicity of the hamburger is that as the staple
American standard, if you do the best one around, it becomes a measure
of how good you are across
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