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Tony Abou-Ganim Separates the True Spirits Values From the Wannabes
In spirits, as with any other commodity, value is ultimately in the eyes of the beholder.
As master mixologist and spirits expert Tony Abou-Ganim puts it,
“Someone may look at a $50 bottle of vodka and say you must be crazy,
while someone else may think it’s the best thing they’ve ever tasted
and is a bargain at twice the price.”
Thus, there is no one way to define value, he says, but rather
there are many ways to perceive it and feel good about the choice that
one makes, at the exclusion of all others in doing so.
What’s a Value?
When Abou-Ganim considers the value in a spirit, he never looks solely at the price.
“If there isn’t quality in the bottle, I don’t want to drink it, no
matter what the price.” Yet he adds, “If a certain brand happens to be
of quality and also sells at a value price, then I believe that is a
win-win.”
In his more than 20 years of experience on the beverage side of
hospitality, for many years as master mixologist at the Bellagio Las
Vegas Resort, price has never seemed to be the deciding factor in
customers’ spirits choices on premise, Abou-Ganim allows. “I judge a
spirits value on what’s in the bottle and how it shows in its specific
category. If I like it and it’s fairly priced in comparison to others
in its class, then, for me, it’s a spirit value.”
Whatever one’s perceptions of value in spirits happens to be,
Abou-Ganim says there never has been a better time to put value
considerations front and center in making beverage decisions that can
have an impact on profit margins in the broad array of spirits
categories in many venues.
“I truly believe that the days of well brands behind the bar are a
thing of the past,” he says. “Someone who may buy a value brand at the
liquor store is most likely to request a specific brand when ordering
at his or her favorite watering hole. Consumers have become much more
brand-specific; as opposed to simply ordering a Vodka Martini, they’re
calling their brand.”
Whatever the criteria for making value judgments, Abou-Ganim knows
it when he sees it in a spirit. Here are his value brand choices across
the major spirits categories and brands.
Top Spirit Values
Vodka. “Here is a category that continues to evolve and redefine
itself,” Abou-Ganim says. “When I started behind the stick — I’m going
to age myself here — Smirnoff was on the top shelf. As we began to
embrace all things imported, vodka was not going to be left behind.
“New categories within the category such as well, call, premium,
super-premium and now ultra-premium evolved, each in turn carrying a
slightly higher price tag. Finlandia, one of the first imported premium
vodkas introduced to the United States in 1971, has always been and
continues to be, in my opinion, both in quality and price point, a
great ‘value’ brand.”
Rum. “Here again is a category with great diversity and, in turn,
great vaues. I was happy to see that one of the more obscure,
hard-to-find producers is now available in the United States. Since it
is lesser known and spends little on advertising, it also translates to
a great value in both price and quality.
“This rum comes to us from the French Islands of Martinique and is the Clement VSOP.”
Gin. “Gordon’s is and always has been a solid gin, and if it’s good
enough for James Bond’s Vesper, well, its good enough for me.”
Bourbon. “This is a tough category as I feel the entire straight
American whiskey category is a great value. When you understand the
regulations surrounding the production of bourbon in comparison to the
price charged, they all represent, in my option, value. But I guess I
need to pick just one, so I have to go with the Jim Beam Black Label.
Aged for eight years and bottled at an honest 86 proof, this American
classic is a true value.”
Scotch. “This is another hard category, as we are often drawn to
single malts as premiums and blends as more of a value (stepchild).
This is just not the case; there are wonderful, complex blends
available. The one that I feel often is overlooked in the shadow of its
big brother Blue is Johnnie Walker Gold Label. Aged 18 years and
selling for less than half the cost of Blue Label, this is a true
value.”
Whiskey (Irish, Canadian and American). “Lots of values exist in
this category, but with regard to value and quality, hunt down a bottle
of unblended, pot-distilled Red Breast from Ireland. After 12 years in
the barrel, it is simply wonderful.”
Tequila. “Here, we need to do a little research, as many
distilleries that produce amazing 100 percent agave (must be 100
percent) tequilas also do second labels or contracted brands that sell
for less but also are of great quality and, in turn, represent a great
value. Try finding a bottle Cabrito Blanco, the second label to
Centinela.”
Cognac. “Value can be judged in many ways, but when I look at price
versus quality, heritage, scarcity and just a great glass of brandy, I
keep coming back to Hennessey Paradis. It is by no means inexpensive,
but when you consider what’s in the bottle, it is a true value at twice
the price.”
Liqueurs. “Campari. It should be in everyone’s liquor cabinet.
“In the words of my cousin Helen David, ‘For a nickel more you go
first class.’ Remember, value is never just about the
price.” NCB
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